Back in Aus. Stories of the surf since I've been back

Surf session Feb 1st : The word was that Kirra point was going off, It was stormy out all day, Werner got off of work at 5 so we walked across the street when he got off and we were standing at Kirra there was a really strong current and crowded with big sporadic waves breaking all over, Werner and I had to paddle out from like 100 yards up the beach from the break and fight the current to get out as we drifted , he didn’t make it out so well… then I sat in the break for a while paddling the whole while and finally got a nice fast right hander, head high , I fly down the line getting a solid 30 second ride, it was a great wave! Then when I got out and got over to Werner and Ronel they were all pumped on the wave I caught so I was amped up, since Mick Fanning was out there were all kinds of people with cameras on the jetty yea yesterday I got two waves the whole day out of two sessions but they were great lol


Feb 2nd: Today I got crushed really bad like real bad and then got a great wave and then got some more smaller guys, let me tell u the one I got crushed by, held me under for what had to be around 20 seconds… I decided to paddle from rainbow bay to snapper rocks cuz the waves were bigger and more consistent, I got there and the wave is one of those types that break off of these big rocks so half the wave crashes and explodes off this rock wall and then the other half is this great fast dropping pitting wave that settles into a real cruisey thick right, you have to sit right off of the rock wall so the waves are bouncing you around and moving you in and out then these big waves jack up and you paddle like hell to catch up to it.. So there were like 10 of us out there and these guys were all pretty good, I felt kinda out classed and then a few boogie boarders were out too, so we were waiting and trying to catch these waves and stay in this one spot and away from the rocks and then outside this big ass monster of a two story wave jacks up and curls over all of us and I hear a "OH-OOW SHIT" then we all dive off our boards and swim down BOOOM?!@# Held under and rocked towards the ground deep by this explosion of water and after about 20 seconds of swimming through this jet wash, hydraulic chaos of water I got to the foamy surface and had to wait for my board to come up. haha it was intense we came up and everyone got to their boards then we paddled further out of the break and were laughing and struggling to clear the water from our eyes and make sure another wave wasn’t gonna crush us , the laughing at each others faces recovering from this rogue wave lasted for another 5 minutes, after that I was determined to get at least one of these warlocks, next set came through and I got this great head high pumping and spitting right hander all the way back to rainbow bay..