Surf Session 2-23-10 Australia

Classic Fingal Left…


We got out of uni classes around 12 and it was sooo wildly hot and sunny not a cloud in the sky water was beautiful, this new kid in the course from southern aus asked if I was going for a surf, and I already had eddy (french guy) and chris (aussie mate) coming over and I have this danish guy “Espen” living with me right now lol so I told him to come chill with us and we'd go… So we get to mine and hung out for awhile till everyone came around.. We were sorta talking about going for a surf but then we ended up just sitting around playing music, talking about hitting this spot that's across the river channel that would be empty and pretty solid if the crowded breaks were going off... I hate this paddle because its about 50 yards across and the river is usually pulling you out to sea or pushing you back in, so you drift quite a ways… Lots of paddling and this water is said to be filed with sharks, potentially bull sharks swimming in the channel picking up scraps from the fishing boats and hanging around in those darker deeper waters, anyways I love the spot but hate the paddle and had only done it once before, but the only alternative is to drive around to the only bridge that gets you onto this island and the bridge is 45 minutes south.... so I decide ok if we don’t go now I'm gonna talk myself out of doing it so lets go, Ed runs off to go get his board… He returned with his board and Andrea (French guy from St. Martin) and Mika (Tahitian), Hayden the new aussie mate, Chris (aussie) and Espen (Danish) and I grab our stuff lotion up and we all set off up the hill to D-bah its crowed and small so we look across to the spot on the other side of the channel and its empty and looks to be alright, there's 7 of us so I say let's cross, get it over with! (My logic is the last time I did this paddle there were 4 of us, this time there's 7, the odds of not becoming an interest to a shark have just gotten better!! haha so we jump in and paddle over, the river wasn’t sweeping much at all so the paddle was straight away not to bad, we walk down to the beach and there's this section that is sorta all over in front of us and there are a few guys out, Hayden (aus), Mika (tahitian), Andrea (French Caribbean), and Espen (Danish) start to make there way in right there, Chris (aus) and I want to go down to the left we had surfed the last time we were there that was just on the other side of the big sand pump pier.. Ed (french) walked with us a bit but also paddled in at the first section, Chris and I kept walking and made our way to the other side of the pier, there was only one guy out and it looked like a really nice left was coming through in each set, so we jump in, sure enough the wave was jacking up right off the pier supports and built pretty fast into this tall wall of a left that fired you down the line..The guy that was already out surfed another two sets then paddled in, Chris and I had it all to ourselves and were loving every second of it, shouting and calling each other into waves, smiles on every wipeout and every great ride... we were getting so many great waves that the warm water was barely helping cool us down from the hot sun and all the paddling and surfing!! SOO EPIC... I'm goofy so I love surfing lefts, and every wave over here is a right and my backhand isn't so stellar, so to have a solid left just pumping through with it all to ourselves I was stoked! Not to mention the Quiksilver pro starts here in a few days and Snapper Rocks and D-Bah have been insanely crowded these past few weeks so we haven’t had a good surf for a while now… After about an hour Hayden (aus) found his way over to our break and told us how the other section was pretty beat and how much better our left was... Chris and I laughed about it and were even more pumped on the wave we had found Hayden is actually a real solid surfer and was having a ton of fun on this wave chucking a few airs and really nice snaps, Chris was also putting his flow into the mix playing with some big carves and a few air attempts... Soon after Hayden made it over Eddy and Espen were spotted paddling over to us.. Chris shouts out " Oh man, there invading where's the border patrol!!" then quickly paddles off into a wave... Eddy and Espen are welcomed into the lineup with calls into the next set... Hooting and hollering for each other the whole session! Spent 4 hours out in the surf because the waves held through and just kept sending set after set... When we finally couldn't paddle into waves anymore from pure exhaustion we each caught one last wave in I was on cloud nine at this point because not only was it a great surf session but my last wave was the best one of the whole session, it really peaked up into this head high wall and shot me down the glassy face, got a few turns out of it and rode the rest of the way in on my stomach and took a breather on the beach... We still had to paddle back across the channel... Great surf with the mates minus the serious sunburn on all our backs, but no casualties!